The Dream

The volcano, Mount Yotei, watching over Niseko

The summer of 2003 saw a huge number of Australians heading to Japan for skiing and boarding. Looking for a change and having heard about the legendary powder I decided (along with a group of friends) to try Japan for myself.

I spoke to travel agents, tour operators, friends and acquaintances about skiing in Japan. With a few reservations the general feedback was good. I was told to expect great snow, food and accommodation (albeit somewhat more confined space-wise than comparable accommodation in North America).

The flight to Japan from Sydney was considerably shorter than to Canada or USA and much shorter than that long haul to Europe.

Probably due to my height I was given 'Exit' row seats on both my international and internal JAL flights. Unfortunately this was not the case on my return but that’s another story.

After a 2 and a half hour bus ride from Chitose airport (near Sapporo) on the island of Hokkaido I arrived in Niseko-Hirafu. It was evening and after a bus swap we were immediately taken to the pension that two of us were starting our holiday in.

There was only one other westerner staying at Asuka pension (pronounced aska) and we immediately plunged ourselves into the local culture: traditional Japanese breakfasts and dinners; the traditional Japanese bathing ritual and of course the little slippers that you put on once inside the pension. There are even special WC slippers that you use to enter toilets with.

Quaint/unusual Japanese village of Niseko

Having been told about the 4% sunshine that was 'the norm' in February I expected weather conditions similar to a 3 week stay I had in Fernie about 5 years ago - snow, cloud and more snow.

As it turned out I had many days without fresh snow but more days with fresh.